Nice outfit, eh? Yea. . . I know. But I'm trying for a little continuity here. You see, yesterday at my house while I was cleaning up, I opened an unlabelled notebook of slides that turned out to be from my trip to Argentina early this century. At the time, I was still scanning slides from my Pamplona to Paris trip, and so. . . Spain and Argentina, right? Here I am in the Spanish countryside. I think. I may have crossed over into France, the Roncevaux region, at this time. . . but let's not split hairs. Here I am in a riot of 1989 Patagonia (the clothing company, but still. . .) colors.
Hideous.
I watched the Argentines lose to Spain last night. I think I was pulling for Messi to make a miracle. The first World Cup Final I ever watched was in 1986 when Argentina beat what was then West Germany in Mexico City. But I wasn't there. I was in a courtyard at a small, country cafe in the mountains of Somewhere, Peru. My group were the only people there but for the owners and staff who set up a tiny black and white t.v. next to our table. When Argentina won, the place went wild.
All four or five of them.
I have a photo from that lunch somewhere. I have so much.
In the photo above, I was on my way to Paris with the William Hurt clone. He was the cheapest sonofabitch in the world, and we had already fallen out about it. The reason I got to see part of the Tour de France was because he refused to take the toll highway turning what should have been an hour's drive into a day trip. When we got to San Sebastian, he didn't want to spend the five dollars or so it would cost for a room. He was prepared to sleep in the car. I found a hostel just off the beach, a giant house with windows you could stand in and high ceilings and told him to drop me off here and come pick me up in the morning.
He didn't like the idea of sleeping in the car alone while I lolled around the beautiful grounds, so. . . .
Paris was much the same. I won't go into it this morning, but after Paris, I was on my way to meet up with the girl who had given me the scarf that is my headband in the photo above. The one with the fabulously wealthy family.
This was all before any idea of billionaires and trillionaires. Four hundred million would place you in the Forbes Four Hundred list back then, and I had just run with the bulls with a man who was included in that elite group. His story is fascinating. His family emigrated from Greece when he was a young boy. As they were about to board the boat, however, the ramp was closed. They were that close to America. Then, as if by the hand of God, the rope was lifted and they were allowed to board.
It was the depression, and his father bought up half of Denver for pennies on the dollar. And then. . . they were rich.
That is how he told the story at his 50th birthday party, anyway. It was a roast with about a hundred people in attendance--and I was one. So was Brando. The man's name was Dino, if you can believe it, and he was a swell fellow. But he, too, was cheap. We were in Ecuador together, for example, and he got incredibly angry when his girlfriend exchanged money at the hotel because she wanted to buy a book. The hotel exchange rate was not as good as the banks. Dino owned his own chain of banks, but he drove an old Toyota sports car, cut and dyed his own hair, and wore shirts with so old the collars were frayed.
He had been in Pamplona after he graduated from college and had run with the bulls. He'd come to do it one more time.
Incredibly, I don't have a photo of him from that trip.
He was rich, but a different sort from my girlfriend's father. I used to eat lunches with Dino at Wendy's where he would get the salad bar then steal food from the potato bar. True. My girl's father, however, ate at fabulous restaurants and always picked up the tab for all his rich friends. There was no questioning it. Nobody ever brought a bill to the table.
And so, in that photo, I was on my way to meet up with her in Cannes where she would take me to their summer home in Aix. It would be the two of us, her parents and brother, and two of her friends. My girl, her friends, and I would later take the train to Florence and then to Paris.
The Hurt clone and I got to Cannes a day early, and again, there was the problem with paying for a room. We had driven by the place I would be staying in Aix, a gated community where the neighbors were Carl Reiner and the famous art dealer Leo Castelli. We could see that the place was lush. Now the clone had an idea. We could stay there for free. What was he talking about, I asked? Nobody was home.
"We could jump the wall," he said.
Fuck off.
But I was done with him by now, and I told him to drop me at a small seaside hotel in Cannes. My girl would pick me up the next day. He was free to do what he wanted. He needed to get back to Madrid in a few days to catch his flight. He moped and whined about the price, but he ended up sharing the room with me for the night.
I hadn't seen my girl since Miami. She had taken me down to catch my flight. She was a cute little blonde Jewish princess with a white convertible Cabriolet, and on that trip, I took the wrong turn off the interstate and got us lost in a bad part of Liberty City--another story for another time. But we stayed at a boutique hotel in Coral Gables called the Place St. Michelle where this photo was taken.
I was done with Brando and done with the Clone and all the fuck ups of the first half of my summer. It would all be smooth sailing now.
Or so I thought.

























